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Variation of Wave Groupiness across a Fringing Reef
| 题名： | Variation of Wave Groupiness across a Fringing Reef |
| 其他题名： | Baldock,T.E.2012."Dissipation of incident forced long waves in the surf zone-Implications for the concept of'bound'wave release at short wave breaking."Coastal Eng.60:276-285.https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.11.002. |
| 正文语种： | 英文 |
| 作者： | Ye Liu |
| 关键词： | Wave group;Groupiness;Infragravity wave;Shoaling;Coral reef |
| 摘要： | A new definition of wave groupiness factor is proposed here based on wave-height history of wave trains. This new definition takes into account the dual roles of both zero-downcrossing wave height and wave period in the spatial and temporal evolution of the wave groupiness. It is demonstrated that the new groupiness factor is less sensitive to the operational definition and can describe the groupiness degree of not only linear wave trains but also highly nonlinear ones. The variation of the wave groupiness across a laboratory fringing reef was investigated. Results showed that in the nonlinear shoaling zone, the groupiness became more pronounced. Decreasing of the groupiness was triggered by wave breaking in the vicinity of the breakpoint. The groupiness decreased rapidly shortly after breaking, whereas it increased in the inner surf zone. Infragravity wave modulation of short-wave water depth was the main source of groupiness after breaking. |
| 出版年： | 2018 |
| 论文唯一标识： | P-108Y2018V144N06010 |
| 英文栏目名称： | TECHNICAL PAPERS |
| doi： | 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000475 |
| 期刊名称： | Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering |
| 拼音刊名(出版物代码)： | P-108 |
| 卷： | 144 |
| 期： | 06 |
| 页码： | 117-130 |
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