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ave Transformation and Sand Transport on a Macrotidal Pocket Beach
| 题名： | ave Transformation and Sand Transport on a Macrotidal Pocket Beach |
| 正文语种： | 英文 |
| 作者： | Kideok Do; Nobuhisa Kobayashi; Kyung-Duck Suh;Jae-Youll Jin |
| 关键词： | Macrotide; Pocket beach; Suspended sand; Wave breaking; Beach profile. |
| 摘要： | Available 17-day field data in Korea are analyzed to investigate the cross-shore wave transformation, currents and sand suspension in the intertidal zone, and beach profile changes of a macrotidal pocket beach with a gentle slope of 0.02 and tidal ranges of 4-7 m. The measured beach profile changes were less than 0.5 m despite the occurrence of two consecutive storms with significant wave heights exceeding 2 m. A cross-shore numerical model is shown to reproduce the gradual wave height decay in the migratory surf zone, the cross-shore current of the order of 0.1 m/s affected by flood and ebb tides, the suspended sand volume varying with the tidal cycle, and the small beach-profile changes. The computed cross-shore and longshore sand-transport volumes per unit width for the 17-day interval are relatively small, but extend the 400-m-wide cross-shore zone. The small volume and wide zone reduces the local erosion or accretion. |
| 出版日期： | 2016.1 |
| 出版年： | 2016 |
| 期刊名称： | Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering |
| 卷： | Vol.142 |
| 期： | No.1 |
| 页码： | 04015009 |
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